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"We live in times of limited resources but unlimited desire to consume them. The answer though is real simple: to consume less as a consumer; to make a better designed product as a manufacturer. Going forward we will have to take more responsibility for our consumption. The manufacturer and the consumer will both have to share that responsibility. We live in interesting times. From where we stand as a manufacturer, a product that keeps working for longer uses less-resources in the end. The key ingredients to this are quality and good design."
David Hieatt, howies co-founder
value shift
As consumers, if we start to consider the whole life-cycle of a garment we can move towards a deeper understanding of what ethical fashion means. We may lust after a handbag in the shop window, but when we start to think how that handbag came into being, where and how it’s various components were made, by whom and under what conditions, as well as how long we’re going to use it for and where it will end up once we’ve used it – then we’re beginning to understand the wider consequences of a
simple consumer choice.
what do we mean by 'ethical'
‘Ethical’ has become a somewhat catch-all term in fashion encompassing a number of issues.
In broad terms, these are:
Some of these issues overlap; none of them solve every problem on their own. Making an
ethical decision is not always a simple choice between right and wrong, but by having an
appreciation of the above factors you can make an informed decision and be clear about
where your ethical priorities lie.
ethical sourcing
Ethical fashion is still seen by some as a novelty sideshow on the periphery of the main event. Ethical solutions, however, are vital to the future of the industry at all levels (from the factory workers up to the boardroom). They are fast being embraced by designers, manufacturers and the UK government, and will increasingly dominate their decisions.
Eco-fashion is no longer associated with sack-cloth dresses and tie-dyed T-shirts; the designs are now as fresh, innovative and cutting edge as their non-ethical counterparts. Ethical boutiques are springing up around the country. Equa in Islington, the first such boutique in London, has a gorgeous array of stylish and luxurious garments and accessories. Every item stocked adheres to one or more ethical standard which is clearly labelled for the consumer.
At Think Style we are committed to sourcing ethically, whether it be:
- buying clothes from brands and independent boutiques who have a strong sustainability / ethical policy
- encouraging and assisting clients to use and adapt the wardrobe they already have
- buying well-made second-hand clothes from Vintage, second-hand and charity shops
- buying high-quality products that will last, as opposed to cheap 'fast fashion' that will only last for one season
- providing re-usable shopping bags for clients' purchases
what you can do
If you are interested in these issues, perhaps the best place to start is to ask you favorite brand
or store for more information on their ethical policies. These links will give you some guidance on
how to go about it:
If you would like to know more about organic cotton try the Environmental Justice Foundation
For concerns about working conditions have a look at the Fairtrade Foundation
For more info and ideas on what to ask try Ethical pest at the Ethical Trading Initiative
ethical terms explained
Organic
- standards apply to every stage of garment production including growth, processing, manufacture, finishing and labelling - for the UK market this is regulated to Soil Association standards
Fairtrade
- fair pay in line with (and often exceeding) the minimum living wage
- trade unions supported
- equality / gender issues examined
- development and nurturing of local skills and communities
- can help support farmers during organic conversion
- for more information see www.fairtrade.org.uk
Vintage or Second Hand
- vintage shops
- charity shops
- dress Agencies
- internet
- swishing / clothes swapping
Recycling fibres / fabrics
- can be pre- or post-consumer waste
- e.g. polyester garments or plastic bottles broken down, re-polymerized & made into fibres
- rubber re-used for trainers soles
Re-design or 'up-cycling'
- pre-consumer waste e.g. offcuts, samples such as www.fromsomewhere.co.uk
- post-consumer waste e.g. unwanted garments reworked into new designs or
decommissioned fire hoses made into luxury bags / belts from Eako www.fire-hose.co.uk
Technology
- the development of materials and processes that are kind to workers and the environment
e.g. development of wipe-clean garments or development of 100% biodegradable garments
- technological advances in processing renewable raw materials suitable for fabric
production; bamboo and soya are successful examples - plants such as banana and nettle
are in development
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